Meet Henry Zankov: The Designer Who Knits Real-Life Hugs
Nov 20
4 min read
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There are very few things in life I cherish during the cold, harsh season of winter—one of them being a kitschy piece of knitwear that feels like a real-life hug. Before winter fashion spiraled out of hand with the domination of faux furs and leopard print, there was the humble knitwear, keeping things warm and snuggly. And for me, that’s all I could ask for—nestling in a statement sweater that’s roomy.
Undeniably, the toasty and timeless appeal of knits makes the chill in the air bearable while serving as the dependable wardrobe hero. And, artisanal knitwear that refines fashion for cold weather is where Henry Zankov shines, with his signature designs that put even the boldest winter statements to shame.
With a background at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City and a proven track record of working with top designers like Diane Von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Christopher John Rogers, and Tanya Taylor, Zankov showcases a novel take on luxury knitwear. This future visionary pioneers in crafting sustainable knits, maintaining a commitment to strictly using fabrics such as non-mulesed wool, alpaca mohair, merino wool, and BCI certified cotton. While the use of these fabrics are not ground-breaking by any means, his dedication to make his garments from top-quality threads are worth celebrating.
The Russian knitwear designer explains, "I want to make pieces that you can cherish," unveiling his desire to be a part of a larger cause. Taking the less-traveled, unorthodox path, Zankov crafts contemporary knits that look snug as a bug and feel like a hug, all thanks to his dedication to sourcing materials from credible, ethical suppliers. His thoughtful approach ensures that each piece is not only luxurious but also kind to the planet.
‘’Zankov Crafts Luxury Knitwear for the Modern Wardrobe–Sustainable, Ethical, and Oh-So Chic’’
The Signature Touch of Zankov Knitwear
These aren’t your grandma’s sweaters, folks! As a designer on the watchlists of fashion insiders alike, Zankov’s knitwear showcases the art of blending bold design with wearability. From his exploration of genderless knitwear to the playful mix of texture, color play, and animal prints, this designer evokes heightened emotions while fusing punk with preppy, setting the stage for 70s nostalgia to intertwine with the girl-next-door vibe of Ivy style.
Whether he's crafting striped pullovers that mix dimensional and geometrical play, engineering perforated turtlenecks and cardigans, or dabbling in zebra patterns à la Schiaparelli, Zankov’s designs push boundaries with a rebellious yet refined attitude. It’s no shock that his knack for incorporating playful textures and unexpected patterns creates fashion that's as thought-provoking and statement-making as it is wearable.
The Zankov Philosophy: Each Article Is an Emotional Statement
Disrupting the status quo is what Zankov does best, reimagining knitwear as a versatile medium that merges art, vision, bold thinking, and the avant-garde. The designer even explains that establishing his namesake brand, Zankov, was to reach a specific goal: creating a strong visual language that’s instantly recognizable. He had the confidence, and it was his way or the highway; there would be no logos in sight—only his craftsmanship and creative lexicon.
Though, there would be quality. According to him, every little detail matters to the knitwear designer–whether it’s the weight of the knit or the type of the yarn. The designer masters the engineering of wear that’s precise, both in terms of cut and construction. No wonder Zankov was recently crowned American Emerging Designer of the year at the 2024 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards. His mindful approach and admirable virtues position this style auteur on the radar, further cementing his status as the benchmark of knitwear craftsmanship.
What Zankov strives for is satisfying his customer with a curated piece that evokes an emotional connection. His deep understanding of himself and his work guarantees the slow and steady establishment of a cult following—a base that resonates with his unique emotive state. And, that’s a philosophy I'll happily get behind, as I'm sure many others will too.
A Look at Zankov’s Most Iconic Pieces
During an interview with SHEESH!, Zankov unveiled the inspiration behind his passion for tactical knitwear—sculpture, interior design, iconic painters such as Picasso and Fernand Léger, and, interestingly, 1960s typography. In fact, according to one Vogue writer, his work is reminiscent of Piet Mondrian, a Dutch painter known for his pure talent in abstract art and his signature neoplastic style. This only proves that Zankov’s vision is springing to life–showcasing his aptitude as a creative visionary who’s nailing the art of manifesting his authentic essence.
In his latest collection for SS/25, Zankov featured pastel and earthy tones, along with bright colors that blind, like violet, cocoa, peridot, bold reds, sunny yellows, and playful oranges. Here’s a snippet that truly highlights his design genius:
Photo by: Johnson Lui, Ivan Bideac, Jimi Franklin
So, the fuss is genuine. The fashion scene is aware that Zankov isn’t just shaping knitwear; he’s redefining it and breathing new life into what was once known as a humble craft. With each piece of Zankov knit, he tells a story that goes beyond fashion and fleeting trends—it's about identity, artistry, and a vision that can’t help but resonate. As his work continues to gain momentum, it becomes increasingly apparent that this style artisan will leave a lasting imprint within the fashion sphere. Keep an eye on Zankov—because the future of knitwear is in the hands of a true visionary.
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